My Concept

Trapped

I choose to explore ideas behind the word 'trapped'. This is my concept board.

I like the idea of trapped and refracted light, and achieving the effect by the layering of translucent fabrics. Also of things encased in material and how they can push at and alter the structure (water in the bag and people in tights). I think that my 'trapped' theme is broad so wont constrain me to certain things it's also a theme which could be reflected in a literal or abstract way allowing me quite a lot of freedom.

Alexander Wang

The designer I got given to create a capsule collection for was Alexander Wang. I was happy to get him as I already knew a bit about his stuff and like what he dose and think I can incorporate my interests into a collection in keeping with his brand. 

Here are some slides from my presentation about his work.

The main things that I'm looking forward to about designing a collection for Alexander Wang is the way he uses materials and juxtaposes them with the garment. I really like it when fashion has a playfulness to it, which i think his work dose. Wang plays with materials, light deconstruction and tongue in cheek 'cool' and 'sexy'. His stuff is also heavily influenced by sportswear which gives it a playful feel.

Creative Pattern Cutting

Here are some different ways of pattern cutting that we were also taught about.

Spiral Cutting

Spiral-cut is a technique normally used for evening dresses when cutting on the bias, this is because the whole pattern is shifted 45 degrees including the darts. This means that when making up your bias cut garment it is less likely to distort and is also a creative way of eliminating darts by replacing them with a winding seam line.

Missoni - Spiral-Cut One Shoulder Fringed Dress

Cutting On The Flat

Cutting on the flat is a technique used for adding volume and gathers, the reason it is a good method for this is that it is more intuitive and immediate....you can see straight away how its going to look as you're already working in 3D. 

You use a piece of facing that is fine enough to see the original pattern piece through then simply create the shape you are after and mark it out with a pen when you are happy with it. 

Subtraction Cutting

Subtraction Cutting is a technique developed by a man called Julian Roberts that I herd about from my brother. I looked on the internet for some more information about it. Here is an interview with Julian Roberts talking about it and a stop motion video of the process.

Julian Roberts Interview

subtraction Cutting Stop Motion

The technique seems really interesting but perhaps limited in that garments I have seen created in this way all have quite a similar aesthetic.

Hand-Outs

Pattern Cutting Revision

Before starting off on our new project we revised some pattern cutting techniques such as manipulating darts, adding gathers, creating raglan sleeves and yolks.

This sketch shows the basic principles of dart manipulation, which i followed to get each of the designs below.

Below are a couple that also incorporate gathers, using the cut and slash technique.

Below is a photograph of my raglan sleeve.